Moveable Feast

Moveable Feast

Ever since I arrived in Japan, I have been wanting to get conveyor belt sushi. It is probably one of the tourist trappings of Tokyo much like eating a big turkey leg at the county fair or deep-dish pizza in Chicago. If you ask native Japanese about “kaiten  zushi”, only a slight tilt of the head will reveal their disdain for your bourgeois pursuit. Nevertheless, do as I do, get wide-eyed, play dumb gaijin and keep smiling waiting for a suggestion. The problem is they will often play dumb right back at you because they are loath to admit they would know of such a place. I ended up finding a place through Sunnypages.jp calles Pintokona. Despite only having one 4 1/2 star review, I saw the restaurant was located in Roppongi Hills so I hoped it would be decent. Plus it mentioned that sushi is not left on the belt for longer than 30 minutes.

I invited my culinary partner in crime Nghi, so in all it was Cliff, Michael, Chase, Nghi and Me. I was worried we would have to sit five people in a row, but turns out, we were shown a table in the back where we could all sit next to a window section that the conveyor belt ran through and gave us visual and auditory access to one of the chefs.

mesmerized!

The faucet you see is the hot water for the self-serve green tea at every table (of course there was a laminated instruction page for how to spoon green tea powder into a cup-add water-mix for all the “tea-challenged”). The big jug with the wooden lid is the self-serve ginger. Some plates came by with a sign on them with names of special sushi or sushi they only made to order and I assumed you pulled the sign plate off the belt to order it, but I was mistaken. I was told to put the sign back and just tell the chef through the window what we wanted. It was really cool. There was a hard menu with other options, but I think we were all so excited to see food coming to us we forgot to check it out. By the time I realized there were other options on the menu, I already had a stack of empty plates that would have made a sumo wrestler blush. Next time my friends… next time…

We let the chef know when we were through stuffing ourselves and he sent someone over to tally the bill.

Price by Plate Color

Just as I was wondering how they were going to add all the different plates up, our table person whipped out his wand and scanned our stacks!

Adding it all up

There is a microchip inside that reads the plate colors and automatically gives you a total! How awesome is that? So efficient! All in all, we had a great time and it good sushi to boot. Michael and Nghi are actually both adventurous eaters so its fun trying new places. On one of the plates there was a sign that only said “Winter Delicacy” so Michael and I both agreed to try it:

Fish Intestine Sushi

I know a picture is worth a thousand words, but I wish I had a picture of Michael’s wholesome Mid-Western face when these two nigiri passed through our window. I’m so glad his male ego did not disappoint me because he cowboy’d up and ate his piece. Taste-wise, I wasn’t expecting much because in my mind, guts are guts, so I was expecting a certain, let’s say, “earthy” quality. However, these fish must have had some kind of bowel prep because these were the cleanest intestines I’ve ever tasted. The texture was creamy and unexpected. I am glad I didn’t have to down 2 of these because it’s kind of a hard mental hurdle to jump twice. I would recommend sharing with a friend over sake.

Until next time…

The Bell Tolls 108 Times

New Year’s Eve

In Japan, it is traditional to eat soba noodles on New Year’s Eve. The Soba noodles are very long and represent long life.

Waiting to get in

New Year’s Eve, they seem to represent long lines. We actually got there at 11:30am to “beat the crowds” but unfortunately there were a lot of people with the same plan. When we arrived, there was a camera crew filming everyone’s pilgrimmage for the noodle dish. Chase and I left Cliff in line while we walked to our café for takeout hot cocoa and green tea latte. Once we finally got a table, I realized the way they were able to turn tables so quickly was only giving customers 2 choices. Sarashina-Horii is a historical landmark here in town.

Later that evening we met up with Michael and Nghi and had a wonderful evening at Roy’s at Roppongi Hills. I have since decided I need to cut vodka out of my diet. The rest of our evening was pretty quiet. This year, I have finally accepted that New Year’s Eve partying is really for single, young people. Since I’m not single anymore, I’m happy to ring in the new year in my soft robe, champagne glass in hand. At midnight, all the Buddhist temples ring their bells 108 times to represent the number of passions and desires entrapping us in the cycle of suffering and reincarnation. The ringing of the bell symbolizes the purification from the 108 delusions and sufferings accumulated in the past year. It is known as joya no kane and even though it sounds kind of macabre, it gives everyone a sense of renewal.

Happy New Year’s Day

According to the Japanese, the first day of the year should include no work for anyone. This is part of the reason why no restaurants or shops are open. As soon as I returned from our ski trip, I went to the grocery store to stock up on food because everyone warned me that Tokyo pretty much shuts down. So in honor of tradition we didn’t do anything on the first, although we did take in our first movie “Real Steel”. I highly recommend it. It was a lot like Rocky but with robots doing the boxing. At Toho Cinemas, they encourage online ticket buying. I have to say, the idea of reserving specific seats for a movie seemed strange to me at first, but in a crowded city, it makes a LOT of sense. Plus, it’s so nice to be able to go and know you will get a decent seat. Having lived here almost 5 months (gasp!), I have come to realize no matter where you go, there will be a crowd.

Shopping

In the States, everyone gets excited about the After-Christmas Sales. Here in Japan, the big time to buy is after the New Year. Many of the traditional stores and restaurants will remain closed, but other retail stores will be open and CROWDED. There are deals to be had, but to be honest, I hate shopping in a crowd. I feel so claustrophobic. Many of the Japanese stores will provide a fukubukuro: mystery bag for sale. This bag has a surprise from that store which is guaranteed to be at least 50-75% off retail, but you just don’t know what it is. Unfortunately, I didn’t see any fukubukuro at Jimmy Choo, Cartier, or Chanel. What I did find was a perfect winter coat:

I think it is pure wheaten terrier! I really miss Maggie. I wonder if she is going to like this coat or be afraid I might turn her into a matching stole?

The other thing people do, is go to a temple to pray for good luck in the new year. Cliff and I ended up doing this at Higashi Hongaji Temple near the Kappabashi district. We were hoping to do some kitchen shopping (more on Kappabashi when I experience it) but alas, the whole area was shut down until the 5th. Cliff goes back to work Wednesday (tomorrow) and Chase goes back to school Thursday. The period of time between winter break ending and summer beginning seems to get shorter and shorter. Each passing year makes me feel older and older. Does anyone else out there say stuff like, “remember the 1900’s?” I know it can be a cool, bonding experience to reminisce about different decades, but when you can compare different centuries it’s a little creepy. 108 sufferings and delusions? I think I just came up with my 109th.

Until next time…

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