Skiing in Hakuba, Nagano

Nagano Mountainside

Moving to Japan, I don’t know why, but I really thought our ski days were over. We packed our gear anyway because I was terrified we would go skiing in Europe or America and have to buy everything all over again. FYI, skiing is one of the most expensive sports to participate in. In my first winter here, I have been to Niseko (Christmas time), just returned from Hakuba, Nagano (Winter breakette= 2 days off), and next week I am looking at spending time in Tsumagoi with Chase’s class for their ski trip.

Our first day of skiing in Niseko was a bit nightmarish for Chase because he is really a beginner and at one point, Cliff asked me if we needed to call ski patrol to get Chase down the mountain. You put an overgrown 10-year old on a pair of skis in deep powder, you need to prepare for a lot of waiting around and tears. Despite all the drama, it amazes me that Chase still claimed to enjoy skiing. Alexandra’s boys were on Spring Break from the British School for a week, Cliff was going to the U.S. for business and Chase had Thursday / Friday off that week, so I thought it would be a good time for Chase and I to do our “Mom & Me” trip to Nagano.

On our way to the train station, Chase was wearing his ski jacket and as he turned to say something he must have gotten a whiff of something special because he says, “Ewww! this jacket smells like tears and boogers!” I didn’t bother asking him to check that out. We caught the Shikansen (Bullet Train) from Tokyo Station. Better to go through the Yaesu entrances. The last time we took the Shinkansen it was going to Kyoto. It was much easier navigating this trip. The trip from Tokyo to Nagano was just under 2 hours. Then we had to get on a bus that took us to Hakuba and that took a little over an hour. At the Hakuba Information center, we contacted Hakuba Tokyu Hotel and requested a lift to the hotel. They picked us up within 5 minutes.

Boys Before Dinner

Our first night, we had terrific casual dinner with Alexandra, Andrew, Ollie and Max. The food was terrific, the sake was cold and we were excited to ski the next day.

FYI: A lot of resort/vacation packages will have ENGLISH and Japanese language options. I accidentally happened to navigate through both and I know enough Japanese to realize they weren’t exactly the same. I was able to get a Japanese person through Tokyo American Club to help me book through the Japanese language site because for the same price I was able to get lift tickets for each day we were staying as opposed to just room and breakfast. Even though Hakuba Tokyu is not ski-in/ski-out, the rental is in-house and the shuttles are available. There is also a basic onsen available.

Hakuba Ski Runs

The Wealthiest Looking Man on the Mountain

We joked a lot about Andrew the Sultan with his 2 wives and 3 boys.

Our first day of skiing was rainy and cold. It was probably our best day of skiing in the season. Even though everyone else seemed to be heading back to the hotels, Chase and I were just getting started and he had a lesson with an instructor booked. I skied with the 2 of them until I realized Chase was being whiny just for me so I peeled off to ski on my own. A lot of people like to ski in groups but personally, I enjoy the independence of exploring on my own. Sometimes I tag-along behind another interesting group or chat it up with other interesting folk and it just makes my day feel so spontaneous. The only downside skiing alone and not knowing a mountain  is the chance of getting lost or getting stuck in a precarious area alone.

After leaving Chase, I headed over to Kokusai and took 2 lifts (Kokusai 1 and Kokusai 3) up the mountian. These map pictures were taken at the top of these lifts. Coming off area 2-2 I turned left thinking this looked like an interesting red run. BTW, Japanese Red Run = American Blue Run. Also, signage in Japan is terrible. So I’m skiing along, doing great, thinking highly of my own ski skills. Thoughts like: Aren’t I terrific? Boy, the Japanese must be very low threshold skiers, etc…. Then, I stopped to rest at an area that looked like a cliff. As I looked over, I saw what seemed like miles of moguls appeared before me and a VERY steep grade. Of course, I am hit with the revelation that I haven’t really seen too many people up to this point (but I assumed it was the rain) and the only other person I see is this bouncing orange jacket all the way at the bottom. Way out of earshot.

I used to think the only reason to ski was for the vistas. Now I see skiing teaches you how to get through bad decisions. I ain’t gonna lie. I was very scared. I took it one bump at a time and I traversed the hell out of that run. By the time I was finished, my thighs were trembling (not in a good way) but I had an amazing feeling of accomplishment. I didn’t even realize it was the  Men’s Olympic Mogul run until I got inside the Kokusai information building to complain about the lack of proper signs.

Men's Olympic Mogul Run

Is it just me, or does that Olympic Course I line change colors mid-stream?!? Who does that?!?

By the time I met up with Chase, we were soaked through. I could wring out our gloves and water was running out. But he felt great about his improving skills and I felt great about being alive. My spinning coach recently told me, “It’s not the years in your life but the life in your years that matters.” I think I’ll borrow that one.

On Top of the World

India Part 5: Party Like a Punjabi

Cliff checking on a dingo

Day 3 Wednesday

This is the first day listed in the wedding invitations. Tonight’s celebration is cocktail attire and your closest 600-800 family and friends in a hotel ballroom mixing it up. The day started with 2 of Aeshna’s school friends (Sonya & Liad) and myself going to her Aunt’s home to possibly pick out some 3-piece outfits or saris for the next few days. Neena is a clothing designer and her boutique is in her home. I figured I would go and if I saw something I really liked I would get it. Hema had mentioned a good sari would run somewhere between $200-$300 (10,000-15,000 Rupees) but that I should really get a 3-piece out fit since saris are so complicated to wear. FYI, there is a famous designer named Ritu Kumar whose boutiques are everywhere and her clothes are beautiful.

So the 3 of us get into a car with a driver and head over to Neena’s. I was very pleased to have found a beautiful kaftan (picture under Day 4) to wear Thursday and I even found a sari to wear for the wedding. I had brought other clothes of course, but I figured, when in Rome and why not? I expressed my concern over not having a petticoat or knowing how to put a sari together and she said not to worry and she would make it Pret a Porter aka “ready to wear”. The other girls managed to find 4 outfits each.

Me, Neena, Liad,Sonya

I am always sensitive to the generosity of others especially at a wedding when people are going out of their way to make guests feel welcome and comfortable. I asked that Neena make certain to let me know how much my items were. She said not to worry and everything would be fine. Just as a note here when dealing with people you don’t know well, it is always wise to insist on at least a rough estimate because their idea of a fine price may not be your idea of a fine price.

Dance Shows

The evening was held at the Eros Hotel. The celebration included 3 mega buffets of Indian and Chinese food and a super stage for performances and dancing. This is what the girls and boys were rehearsing the other night. Of course, girls were practicing at the bride’s home and the boys at the groom’s. They had a choreographer pull together several different dances expressing different feelings and ideas of relationships and marriage. It was terrific. Cliff and I managed to meet a lovely couple who were long time friends of Navnit’s and they were very sweet in explaining the meanings behind all the songs and dances.

Having a great time.

We ended up calling it a night around 12:30am. The party did not stop until 4 or 4:30am. For many of the family, this was probably already their 4th or 5th day of festivities.

Day 4 Thursday

Incredibly enough, a lot of the party goers were up bright and early to go to the 12:00 event at the Bride’s home. Today was a more casual gathering and the day for Mehndi and Bloody Marys and more dancing. I also got to wear my beautiful kaftan:

Sonya & Liad (Bride's girlfriends) Bride's mom, Bride's twin brothers & me in the middle!

Day was gorgeous and the house was gorgeous. I loved all the incredible textures and fabrics of the Indian culture. My kaftan is actually Rajasthani. I had purchased white leggings and beautiful silver wedge shoes to go with. Today was also the first time we had a chance to see the neighborhood in the daylight. We knew Navnit lived in one of the most exclusive neighborhoods in Delhi and very affluent-looking mansions were everywhere, but just as noticeable was the lack of landscaping. It was really shocking:

Picture inside the neighborhood

Coming from two countries (Japan & USA) where curb appeal and landscaping are incredibly important, I was amazed to see such rubbish (literally). I was later informed that in India, when you purchase the house, it doesn’t necessarily include the land around it. So at any point without any notice the government can come in and do as they please with that land. Therefore, many Indians put money in their homes, but not in their lawns.

Back to Bride’s house.

Navnit's home during the day

The entire outside was beautifully decorated with bright festive colors. There were 3 sections to the outside area. In this “room” people greeted one another and you could select bangles to go with your outfits from the cart. Further in there were 2 sections. One section was completely under a tent, where the bride was getting her Mehndi applied:

and there were 2 singers singing Punjabi music behind a dance floor and another open area where tables were set up so you could sit and eat. The singer on stage acted as Master of Ceremonies and she kept calling out to family members to dance. Lots of pressure to dance at Punjabi get-togethers. I decided to get my Mehndi early since it takes about 2 hours to dry and flake off:

Mehndi with my Hindi

After a few hours, we were ready to head back. I needed a nap. There was talk of reconvening at the house for dinner and talk, but I knew I was done. Cliff and I went back and got into bed, munched on hotel snacks and watched TV and chilled. It was so nice just to do that. Plus, as buttoned up as Cliff is, it is nice to see him chasing a potato chip in bed. Funny thing about naps, as soon as you get up, you want to drink or eat again. Navnit called and invited us over, but I’m a “do-my-face-once-a-day” girl. Once that make-up comes off, if I have to put it back on, you gotta pay for the whole night. I could tell Cliff was feeling thirsty so I told him to go ahead without me.

Day 5 Friday

Wedding Day!

Day 5, and despite Indian food breakfast, lunch, and dinner, no Delhi Belly for either of us. Cliff is not having diarrhea but he is incredibly gassy. He avoids any type of gas-producing food in the real world so he had no tolerance. Coming to a country where the food is pretty much based on beans/lentils he didn’t have a prayer. We decided to do our souvenir shopping during the first half of the day. I would have liked going to an outdoor bazaar, but we didn’t have the time so we went where the quality of goods would be higher, but so would the prices. In Japan, it is considered polite to bring back a gift or souvenir from the place you have just been for your friends. Its called omiyage. Since scarves are so handy and fabrics are so wonderful here in India I thought these would make perfect gifts for my new friends. Can’t wait to distribute!

We get back to the hotel and rest a little, pack a little and wait a lot. Cliff gets his tuxedo on and now all we have left is my sari. It finally shows up and it is gorgeous! I absolutely love it. The colors remind me of Korea.

5:30pm Leave Hotel with bags

7:00pm Arrive at Former home of the Vice President’s for wedding.

Rajasthani headdress on Cliff. Punjabi Sari on Kathryn

I apologize for the picture not being in color, but the color photograph came out all red because of the lighting.

Bride's village awaiting the Groom on his horse with his villagers.

Bride's family greets the groom

Once the groom has been marked and accepted into the bride’s family, he walks down the path between the guests holding his mom’s hand. I got a little choked up during this part. It was all so solemn and festive at the same time. I kept thinking to myself, it really is a big deal when families are joined together. In America, marriages seem to be about loss. Losing your freedom, losing your money, losing a son. Even in Korea, I can’t tell you the number of times my mom tried to pressure me into another child saying “Chase is going to leave you one day!” Here in India, it was really about bringing two people and two peoples together.

Here comes the bride

10:45pm Cliff and I dash to the Airport for 1:30am flight to Hong Kong and then Tokyo.

I feel like I learned so much being in India. There are lots of similarities between India and Korea. India is probably the exact opposite of Japan. I learned there are 27 or 28 States within India and hundreds of different languages. Everyone kept telling me about the diversity of the food, but I gotta be real here: It all tasted “Indian” if you catch my drift. The Indians I met are incredibly passionate, generous, warm-hearted people. I’m glad I went, and I’m so happy to share it with you all.

Namaste

Until next time…

Adorned with souvenirs

India Part 4: Day 2 Taj Mahal, Red Fort, Dancing Monkeys

Taj Mahal

Day 2 Tuesday

6:30am meet the driver downstairs to go to Agra. We have been told the drive to Agra can be anywhere from 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 hours long depending on the traffic. This was our first experience with “India Time”. People will schedule things at any given time, but there is usually a 60-90 minute standard deviation when people actually arrive. Traffic is insane. No one follows the traffic lights or stays within the lines drawn on the road. Horns are constantly honking and you have to stop for livestock and beggars who may just be passing through and are ubiquitous.

Traffic Trifecta: Beggar children-Holy Cow-Tourist

Cliff has gone to the Taj before by train, but felt like going by car would enable us to experience more of India. He was right.

Stop #1:  ATM because we had NO Rupees.

Cliff entering the ATM

You know how they tell you not to go to crowded ATMs or ATMs in bad neighborhoods? Not possible in India. I took this picture after telling Cliff not to get raped or killed. The driver volunteered to go in with him and act as bodyguard. All I kept thinking about were all these poor Indians (I mean this literally) standing around listening while the ATM is doling out the paper money “ch-ch-ch-ch-…” and this wealthy-looking white man waiting for the handout. I figured at the very least, he was going to get his hand chopped off. Luckily, Cliff had the good sense not to withdraw what he had intended and settled for 10,000 Rupees = $200 USD = about 2 weeks salary for average Indian. Afterwards, he and the driver ran back to the car and we resumed our journey.

Stop #2: Bathroom Break

Ever watched the movie Hostel? Well picture a sequel called “Hostel 4: Trip to India”. The place where we stopped for our pit stop turned out to be where all the drivers take their customers for a potty break. Cliff and I went in and out pronto. While we are on the subject, I would like to show you a picture of our bathroom at the hotel just so you see the basic components of an Indian bathroom.

Bathroom at Our Hotel

Half the time I went to a bathroom, I couldn’t figure out where the flush button/lever was and I kept seeing the hand spray next to the toilet wondering what that was for? Every bathroom has these parts. I later found out that the hand spray is in case you want to bidet. I don’t get it. How the hell are you supposed to do your business, spray yourself down there, and not get your clothes all wet and nasty? Country full of engineers. Whatever.

Stop #3 Paying the Toll

At some point on the highway, we had to stop in a long line of cars.The driver explained he was going out to “pay the taxes” but not to worry,  he would lock us in the car and we were not to open the windows. I barely had time to ask why when a man with 2 monkeys stationed himself next to my window. He was begging for money and making his monkeys do a little show. The car in front of us had someone selling jewelry from a stick. After what seemed like a VERY long time, the driver returned and we were able to get moving again. Now, whenever we get the chance, Cliff and I like to say to whoever, “Dance for your Rupees you jumping monkey!”

Stop #4 Taj Mahal

You have to park a little ways away from the Taj and then be transported to the gate.

You can take a camel:

You can take a rickshaw:

And you can walk.

I don’t want to bore you with a bunch of silly photos of the Taj, because it is pretty well documented. Being at the Taj Mahal on Valentine’s Day was really lovely.

Happy Valentine's Day

  • Me: Now that man knew how to love his woman. Where’s my Taj Mahal?
  • Cliff: “I got your Taj My Haul right here…”
  • Me: silence.

It’s a really incredible place and it goes without saying that if you are ever in the neighborhood (within a 5 hour drive) it’s worth it.

Stop #5 Lunch at Sheraton

The key to enjoying vacations in “poor-ass countries” (phrase I took from Nghi who is from Poor-Ass Vietnam) is to give yourself breaks where cleaner, wealthier people are hanging out. In Agra, this meant having lunch at the Sheraton. This place was really gorgeous and probably one of the nicest Sheratons I’ve ever seen. Having just looked at the official website, I will say that the pictures from the website are probably 100 times nicer than what I saw in person, but still, a very nice place and nothing like the ATM or the Hostel. After we had a lovely Indian lunch, we had the opportunity to meet some men from Rajasthan:

Waiting for our Driver with the Rajasthanis

I think in my next life as an Indian, I would hope to be Rajasthani. No offence to the Punjabis, but Punjabis party harder than Alexandra and I’m barely able to hang with her. The Rajasthanis are lovely, warm-hearted people with the added plus of being awesome dressers. After lunch, Cliff and I decided we would try to hit 1 more place before we started back.

Stop #6 The Red Fort

Red Fort in Agra, India

The Red Fort is actually older than the Taj Mahal. Only 30% of the compound is open to the public. The other 70% is an active military compound. It was really someting walking the same paths as so many other people and wild beasts of history had traveled so many years ago. It has an amazing history and architecture.

Inside the Royal Quarters at the Red Fort

After the Red Fort, we were definitely ready to head back. Before we could get on our way, the driver ended up taking us to a place where Indians are still creating marble works of art like tabletops and trays and other items in the old ways of the Taj.

There was a moment where I totally expected to see Chris Rock pop out clutching a long hair weave in his hands ala “Good Hair“. Felt very sweat shop to me, but despite all that, Cliff and I ended up purchasing a beautiful platter with all the Taj Mahal stones embedded in the Indian Marble. Navnit (Father of the Bride) gave us some advice in Indian haggling. He said find out what the price is and then discount by 100%.

All told it was 9 hours of driving through terrible, jerkie, honking traffic. Be prepared if you ever go to India. It is LOUD. Like I mentioned before, everyone is very free with the horn and in fact you will see written on the backs of trucks “Horn Please” because this is how they let other cars know where they are. By the time we got back, it was around 8pm. Believe it or not, Navnit called Cliff and said we should come over and have dinner and watch the girls practicing their dance routines. I told Cliff to go without me. I was done.

Until next time…

India Part 3: Getting There

View from our Room at the City Club in Delhi

Day 1 Monday

Cliff and I leave Chase around 5:45am Monday to catch the 6:00am bus for the airport. Chase has hit a new milestone and knows he needs to get up, make his own breakfast and get to the bus stop by himself. We told him if he misses the bus not to tell us but to find a way to get to school on his own and not get killed or kidnapped. During the bus trip, I began thinking about different things. There was a time when I was “exercise-cray-jee” and refused to go on vacations for more than 3 days because I was worried about missing my cardio, but now, I see traveling as exercise for my soul and I just go with it. Just something I was thinking on my way to India. The other thing I thought about was how Chase used to have some speech issues so he couldn’t say ridiculous and instead would say, “That’s dickless.” This phrase turned out to be a useful tagline throughout our trip.

Of course during the bus trip, I had to go to the bathroom because my morning coffee hit me. Of course we were sitting in the front row. Of course when I tried to walk myself all the way to the back where the toilet was it was like being a human pinball in AND out of the bathroom. Now I know why all those damn handles are on the walls. By the time I finally managed to relieve myself the bus stopped and when I came out, Cliff was already off the bus getting the luggage.

I call this picture: C-E-Oh No Privileges

Cliff decided to book Cathay Pacific Airlines for this trip on the recommendation from another well-traveled executive who said when he had to travel with his family, the coach section in Cathay airplanes was really good. He was wrong. In fact, I would actually say the planes we flew coming and going were the worst I’ve ever flown. Not only that, poor Cliff had to stand and wait with the normal folk to get in because he had no special relationship with the airline or its affiliates. Like they say, stay with the devil you know.

Despite everything, we were in good spirits until we were connecting in Hong Kong. Cliff got mad because I didn’t wait for him when we were looking for the gates. I thought this was funny since Cliff NEVER waits for anyone and he has actually lost Chase and me a few times because he walks so far ahead of us. It used to bother me, but now I kind of like it that people think we aren’t together. It gives me a chance to walk through the airport like Mysterious Traveling Woman. Sometimes, when Cliff tries to talk to me now, I respond while looking in other directions so people can’t make the connection.

Getting through Customs

So after 9+ hours of traveling to India, we arrive and Cliff has messages from Navnit telling us the driver will pick us up and take us directly to his home where they are having an informal dinner/get-together. Now I am on India time so that means the only times I can keep up with are Daytime and Night-time. When we arrived it was definitely Night-time.

Cliff and Navnit in Front of the Singh Mansion

It was dark as we drove through Delhi trying to find Navnit’s home. As we entered the subdivision, it was all dark except this one house at the end that was lit up like a Christmas tree on fire. This would be Navnit’s home. It is really something to see the way the Indians decorate to celebrate a wedding. Several people already mingling and eating. They had a terrific buffet of North Indian food (the Singhs are Punjabi). Let me just tell you, this “Mysterious Traveling Lady” likes to immerse herself in whatever culture I find myself in. If people are eating with their hands, then I too shall eat with my hands. I can tell Cliff is a little grossed out watching me do this and to be honest, I’m grossing myself out a little because I did just get off a plane, but screw it, I’m all in. One thing I found quite awkward was eating with my right hand and then having to greet people and shake hands with that same hand. Even though my right hand was definitely getting the hang of it, I decided to try to train my left hand to eat so I could shake with my right. Later on I was told not to do this because you eat with your right hand and you wipe with your left, and I’m not talking about your mouth. So I re-corrected myself and went back to my right hand and did the head bob/nod greeting when I met new people.

My word count is getting high, so I’ll stop here. Will try to give you all closure before heading off to Nagano Wednesday.

Until next time…

Back

20120218-160503.jpg

Finally back from India. We finished a 9+ hr flight in coach and Cliff has decided to spoil me with a train ride to Tokyo (there is sarcasm in between these words). He wants to try the Narita Express. Tickets are ¥2940/person.

While Cliff figures out how to buy tickets, gives me a chance to check in and be “connected”. He hates when I try to help because I think he finds it emasculating, so I’m on luggage guard duty until he hits “the wall” and waves me over so I can start my apologies for my “difficult round-eye husband”.

Anyhow, so many photos and lessons and quotes to share. Will try to get organized ASAP in between loads of laundry and packing for Nagano (Wednesday!).

About Last Night

 

Cosmopolitan from Union Square Restaurant

Before the details get fuzzy, I must record the happenings of last night. I thought I could hang with Alexandra and Andrew (Alex & Andy) but I think I was kidding myself. Ever since our last trip together, I have promised myself I would gradually increase my alcohol tolerance, and adhere to my strict bedtime of 8:00pm. Saturday, Alexandra at least seemed to be considerate of my 10 hour sleep minimum. She asked me if she should make the reservation for 7 or 7:30pm so of course I said 7. We met them and another couple at Union Square restaurant in Tokyo Midtown for dinner. That Cosmopolitan picture was the drink I ordered. My eyes nearly fell out of my head because it was so big! I took a picture of it next to a 50 yen piece (about the same size as a nickel) because I just couldn’t believe it. I finally found something in Japan that wasn’t smaller here than in the US. After fantastic food, wines and service, Alexandra received a call from a friend who was at another bar close by with more people and oh by the way, do we all want to meet up? At this point, I’m feeling pretty saucy and having trouble in my Ferragamo wedges, but Alexandra is pulling me by the arm and threatening never to talk to me again if I don’t go for just one drink. She has promised Lien and me that we will be rewarded with furs if we go, what the hell?!? How can you not love Alex? Anyhow, for someone who can’t weigh more than 100 pounds soaking wet, she is a very strong woman. I attribute this to her Korean background.

Next stop, R2. We find the group. Everyone is very nice and they have somehow managed to score the front table so now we moved from a party of 6 to 12. Everyone was jovial and drinking more wine. Being surrounded by the 20-30-whatever set, it suddenly dawned on me that as you get older it isn’t about who you’re going to meet when you go out anymore. It’s who you can escape from. I don’t know when, but by I think 11pm? I can’t remember, people were dispersing, there was talk of babysitters needing to be relieved, I was seeing a light at the end of the tunnel, but I was mistaken, because it turned out to be the glinting light from Alexandra’s diamond ring as she was pulling my wrist AGAIN and talking of karaoke! WTH? I can barely walk. Now she says I have to go for “just 1 song, baby. Shut up and get in the cab.” I’m disoriented. I’m tired. I’m going.

Smash Hits is where we pull up. The original and final 6 of us (Alex, Andy, Lien, Paddy, Cliff and yours truly). At first, I had no intention of getting on stage or  singing, but damn them if they didn’t make it seem so fun! The place had a HUGE inventory of songs to choose from and you could get on stage and jump in whenever you felt it. They even had props like wigs or a guitar. The place was pleasantly full, not crazy packed and we could spread out and it made it comfortable for even Cliff to get up and sing a tune:

Cliff and Alexandra singing backup for Andrew

ONE song turned into shutting down the place at 2:30am. Cliff and I somehow managed to stumbled home reeking of cigarettes and sneaking into the apartment trying not to wake the 10-year-old boy.

At this very moment Cliff and I are packing for our trip to India. Everything seems to be in order, but I always feel like I am forgetting something especially when we leave Chase behind. I want to blog while I am away but I am not sure if I’ll be able to, so just hang in there until I get back. Our flight returns to Tokyo next Saturday the 18th late in the afternoon. Cliff turns right around on Tuesday the 21st to do business in the US and I leave with Chase, Wednesday on the 22nd to meet Alexandra, Andrew and their boys up in Nagano for a few days of skiing. We will return Saturday the 25th. Cliff returns to Japan March 2nd. Whew!

Until next time…

 

 

I Heart Valentine’s Day & India part 2.5

When I first arrived in Japan, I was informed that the Japanese are known as some of the most energetic consumers in the world. I didn’t quite understand what this meant until a couple of days ago when I was walking around and noticed all the Valentine’s Day decorations. Between the Japanese festivals and National Holidays and then the purely commercial International Holidays barely 5 days can pass when you aren’t obligated to buy some kind of gift. It’s genius. These obligations keep businesses open and people in stores buying things all the time. I recently came across an article in the local Gaijin Magazine: Metropolis. It had a small list of “Japanese” terms for the different types of chocolates we have to buy for one another:

The Japanese have figured out a way to get 2 spending days out of one holiday by designating Valentine’s Day as the “Man’s” Holiday. One month later, White Day (March 14th) is observed as the “Woman’s” Holiday when the men who received gifts are supposed to reciprocate with bigger and better gifts to their female gifters. Sometimes women give each other gifts and even that has become somewhat of a show of who has the most friends. Most of my friends know I’m not really into brown chocolate. Give me fried food any day:

KFC's Chicken Fillet Double

As of February 2nd, Japanese KFCs started carrying the Chicken Fillet Double. I don’t know if this is old news for you all in North America, but it nearly made me fall off the pescetarian wagon. Two chicken fillets acting as “the bun” containing 2 slices of cheese , bacon, and mayo. I just don’t understand how this and other more elevated food can be available here in Japan and I SWEAR, people here are tiny.

Picture of the Day:

The name says it all

Some of you have heard me say, I just don’t believe in going to any restaurant that promises to deliver the world to you. I don’t go to Pan-Asian buffets and expect Michelin level food. Give me a restaurant that promises one or two dishes and do them to perfection and I’ll be there every week (ie, So Kong Dong in Atlanta, GA). I passed by this deep-fried chicken joint on my way home and I just felt a deep connection to the place.

As promised I am including a picture from my last cooking class with Hema:

Nicki, Alexandra & Hema

We had a great time and as usual, Hema outdid herself making so many dishes and providing hot Indian crepes as we ate. That list of recipes on the refridgerator is what we prepared for that day’s lesson in South Indian Cooking. I just can’t get over how flavorful everything is and how even without meat you NEVER leave the table unsatisfied. Hema also had some good advice regarding my upcoming trip and I will take everything to heart. So excited to go to India. My passport finally came back from the Embassy, I have my diarrhea meds all packed and I am ready.

Tomorrow, Cliff and Chase go bird-watching in Ueno. I will go spinning (more on that later) and get my hair cut. Maybe I’ll do something really crazy like get lots of layers and dye it red:

Until next time…

India Part 2

Just to provide a little more background on India:

Cliff has a partner in India whose daughter is getting married. Cliff being the good Texan that he is, ended up inviting himself plus one to this wedding. At first, I was feeling a little embarrassed about our entre’ into this event, but I’m not about to look a white horse (or elephant as it may be) in the mouth and I scheduled an appointment with my internist ASAP. You are supposed to get these shots at least a few weeks in advance so they have time to ”cook” in your body. Every time I go to the doctor and they ask me if I remember my last vaccinations I always say no. Who remembers that kind of thing? So I ended up getting 4 shots for things like Typhoid, Hepatitis A & B and a promise to return 6 months later for a booster. I didn’t get sick afterwards, but by dinnertime, I couldn’t lift my arms above shoulder level. Given my propensity for street food and intestinal distress, I also got some prescriptions to hopefully help me on the flight home if need be.

THE INVITATION:

Wednesday Invitation

Thursday Invitation

Friday Invitation

What you say? Three days of celebration? Yes. All the Indian weddings I have heard of have always involved 3 days of merriment. I love receiving beautiful invitations snail mail. It is part of a dying art of sending beautifully written notices on exquisite paper which has all been carefully selected with love. I think that is one of the love/hate relationships a lot of people have with Japan. In the beginning, it is a wonderful thing to watch people who take such care and time to do the simplest of things like tea ceremony, wrapping a gift, making a cocktail. After a while, it can be a little frustrating when you don’t have extra hours to wait for someone to bag your groceries, pluck the beans off a plant to make coffee, ring up a purchase and let you get the hell on with your day. The Japanese have perfected the zen of waiting in line.

GIFTS:

After Cliff and I saw the invitations and started realizing how lavish this affair was going to be, small beads of sweat began to form on our foreheads as we contemplated what kind of wedding gift is sufficient when drinks, food, and rare animals are involved? Of course I consulted with my siksaka (Hindi word for teacher) Hema. She suggested cash, gold bars, silver, and since we were coming from Japan, something Japanesey.  Evidently gold and silver are the international words for “good invitee.” Cliff insisted on consulting with his Indian friend and he told him to just give the couple $100. That’s a guy for you.

CLOTHING:

Some people told me I needed to pack a lot of clothing because these weddings are typically all day and everyday and guests need to look their freshest. Unfortunately, I have left most of my ball gowns in the States, but I have a couple of dresses that might work. I am also hoping to maybe pick up a sari to wear one night. I hope it doesn’t come off cheesy like when white chicks put chopsticks in their hair.

COOKING:

This part of my blog doesn’t really have to do with the wedding, but I have started my culinary journey into Indian cooking so I’m just throwing it in here. I was super excited to buy and fill my Masala spice set.

Masala Set

Last cooking lesson, Hema whipped it out while she was teaching and Adonica and I were so jealous. Fortunately our last visit to the Indian wholesaler afforded us the opportunity to get our own. It is so much like a painter’s palette and as soon as I filled mine, I felt like I was one step closer to creating my own Indian food art. In my mind’s eye (often referred to by yogis as the 3rd eye), I picture the American masala set:

Thursday is my next cooking lesson and we will do South Indian cuisine (last lesson was North Indian). Will try to take pictures and report back anything interesting.

Until next time…

Riddle Me This… and India: Part 1

How can I be an unemployed, illiterate housewife in a foreign country and STILL be so tired and busy? I know this is something both women and their husbands have asked themselves at one time or another in their lives. As an “ex-pat wife” here in Tokyo, I feel like I have to fight the current stereotype. Although, you know what they say about stereotypes, they’re true. Are there obnoxious, entitled, clique-ish ex-pat wives running around talking about packages (I’m not talking about the physical one but the financial one) around Tokyo? Yes. Are there Others who are grateful for charmed lives, cooking home-cooked meals, tending to children, freezing in apartments typing out brilliant blogs with fingerless gloves hoping for a book or movie deal? Yes. I know I’m spoiled. Sometimes I try to hide it, and sometimes I let my labels show.

I like fresh flowers in my home, but I like fake outside. I like to be in bed by 8:00pm. I like to have pretty manicured hands, but my Catholic self is still making payments for the last manicure. Given the fact that almost all the women here have artwork on their fingertips, I feel like my unadorned phalanges are symbols of a “grounded, earthy person”. This has been on my mind too: how is it, I can send text messages all day, but the idea of punching 10 or 11 numbers on a keypad to make a call exhaust me? or does anyone else feel taxed at the mere prospect of having an actual phone conversation? I can’t wait for the day Apple comes out with the next level of communication when we can just send mental balloons to one another. They can call it the iThought.

Don’t ask me why, but I have also been wondering if wanting to drink sake in the middle of the day necessarily means I might be an alcoholic. Can’t people just enjoy the taste of sake so much that they crave it and want a drink at 11:00am? Like some of my friends have said, it’s Happy Hour somewhere in the world, but then again, these were my alcoholic friends. But seriously, is it so wrong to have a drink in the middle of the afternoon? Oh the shame!

On a totally different topic: INDIA

Cliff and I have been invited to a wedding in India. I have been to 2 “Indian” weddings in the States. I can’t help but assume that just the location dilutes the authenticity out of the event. One of the weddings happened to be for my Icelandic friend Gunnar who happened to be marrying an Indian woman, so that one didn’t even have an Indian Groom and half the guests were WHITE. India has always been on my list of places to visit. I have had this dream of striking a pose near the Bodhi tree. And just recently, Adonica and I have decided to move on from vegan Japanese cooking to Indian cooking. Just this past Thursday, Adonica, Nghi and I went to Asakusa to shop at an Indian wholesale market and get our pantry staples.

clockwise: Adonica, Me, Nghi

The outing was serendipitously initiated by the St. Mary’s Parents Association who had organized an outing to Asakusa. One of the parents actually owns the Indian store we visited. We took a group photo in front of the Kirin Brewery Headquarter:

Nghi thought that sculpture looked like a yam, but to me, it looked like a golden turd. I don’t know who, but maybe someone informed us that it is the symbol of beer foam. Figure that one out.

Back to India Preparations:

January 23rd: Appointment with Tokyo Medical Clinic for India Trip

This involved 4 inoculations and prescriptions for anti-diarrheals and antibiotics. I figure it isn’t about if, but when.

receipt for shots = $509.30

Prescriptions

Not sure what this will cost, but will let you know. When I went to the pharmacist, it was kind of funny, because he said in Japan a hand-written prescription was extremely rare. Most of the clinics will fax or email prescriptions for patients. It was kind of fun trying to decipher the doctor’s handwriting.

Will try to spend more time on my India trip preparations as I get more information. Seeing Hema this week for my 2nd cooking lesson. I believe Alexandra and Nicki are joining Adonica and me for Southern Indian cuisine.

Cliff returned from Europe yesterday and we are all here until the 13th when Cliff and I will leave for India. Joji, her daughter and Nghi will be looking after Chase while we are gone.

Until next time…

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