Honesty Over Harmony

Wish I lived here

Wish I lived here

“Honesty over Harmony” was something a woman in Colorado once told me. You know how there are quotes that echo in your mind for the rest of your life? This was one of those. It was the title of a course she and her husband took after an episode of infidelity. I can’t say I agree on that front, but I do believe it has a purpose (more on that later, probably).

After my last blog, I received some “honest” comments and by that, I mean death threats… mostly from family members (aka Crazy Middle Sister). This, I expected and understood, but this is my blog, and if the truth hurts, I can only suggest some personal introspection. If anyone should be sending me nasty messages, it should be Cliff and Chase. They have oft been the inspiration for my blog and usually don’t know about it until I’ve posted. I always appreciate their feedback, listen to their pleading, but if sugar-coated family times are what they are looking for, I suggest they start viewing old Leave it to Beaver or Brady Bunch episodes. To their credit, they have an amazing sense of humor and surrender about the whole thing. It also means I can count on at least a few days of super “good behaviour” after I roast them in a blog. I love them for putting up with my rants in person and in Blogsphere.

Not Us

Not Us

I like to think I am most honest about myself. People I know who read this blog tell me how much they laugh sometimes. Do I get offended? No. I never know what makes people laugh, but if my life-adventures bring a chuckle or two, call me Mother Theresa. If you’re the type of person who is offended by everything, Freakin’ A, let me be the one to tell you, no one likes you or wants to spend time with you… and YOU WILL NEVER FIND A HUSBAND. Back to me. The other day, I went out, in my usual Brazilian, spandex workout uniform, thinking I looked pretty good. I was wearing the one pair of capri pants that weren’t black (this pair was actually a sky blue). I go to spin, do some yoga, run errands, then I get home. To my horror, I realize these capris give me camel toe to the degree that would make a camel’s podiatrist blush. I’ve been walking around, visiting my fishman (who did give me a good deal on some wild Sea Bass), looking like a Smurfette with no panties! Well, needless to say, I peeled off those pants and they were retired in the trash can.

I don't get it.

I don’t get it.

SCHOOL HONESTY: Private school admissions letters are due to be mailed out April 5th. We can access the verdicts online by the 6th, but call me old-fashioned and superstitious, but I like the anticipation of trying to use my x-ray vision, waiting for Chase to come home, and ripping an envelope open. Good or Bad, I think Chase needs to experience that for himself. My other sister in Virginia, who is a super spy during the day and yet somehow manages to have time to raise 2 girls on her own and be my personal IT support, told me she thinks I’m too hard on Chase in the blogs and making him sound academically average. That made me a little sad, because that is absolutely not the impression I would ever want anyone to have. Nor would I want him to think I felt like that once he is older and diligently reading and savouring all of mommy’s precious blog posts. I apologize if I have not accurately portrayed my son’s awesomeness. As parents, it is a fine line between being motivational while belittling your child and crushing his spirit completely. I try to ease up when I see quivering chin action.

BASEBALL HONESTY: Little league sure has changed. We (and by we, I mean Chase) are in the Majors playing on the Texas Rangers. Chase has always been The Hitter. He usually plays clean up and hits it over the fence at least once every season. That being said, I told the new coach to please not put him at #4 (Clean Up Batter) early in the season because he puts a lot of pressure on himself and ends up choking at bat. Of course, during practices, Chase was killing the pitches. Really performing well, and by the time games started, they decided to start him at #4. Chase hasn’t had a hit in 6 games. After game 4 they finally put him at #8 which was a big relief to all of us, but I’m worried the damage has been done. We are trying to stay confident and upbeat for his sake, but he cries after every game because he feels like he’s let everyone down. To be honest. This may be our last season.

Chase is #1 in our book. Number 12 on the team.

Chase is #1 in our book. Number 12 on the team.

Net-Net, I’m sorry if feelings are hurt. I try to disguise names as much as possible (not really). With everything going on in my family right now, that phrase, “Honesty over Harmony” never rang more true. I’ve learned one thing: You can eventually have harmony with honesty, but you will NEVER have harmony through lies. Peace out.

Until next time…

Ookii and in Charge!

Me w/ Ookii & Maggie

Let me introduce you to our new baby: Ookii. She is our miniature schnauzer and all girl. Many tried to tell me how your second is so much more stressful than your first and they were right! She has been great overall, but when I do feel like I need a break, I just put her in the laundry room with a bowl of water and a chew toy (kind of like when Chase was a baby, sans bowl of water). Ookii means “Large” in Japanese and Ok Hui is a Korean girl’s name. “Win-Win” as the Chinese say. As soon as she arrived, I called the dog whisperer Anna and we have been having puppy training sessions. Anna is with Happy Healthy Pup. Housebreaking has its good days and bad days. Much like myself.

SPEAKING OF LARGE:

Growth Chart

Growth Chart

At the last possible moment, applications to private schools is finally complete. Since I last blogged, we received Chase’s SSAT scores and let’s just say they were not so great. Chase has actually misinterpreted the score report and believes he scored in the Top 29% when the exact opposite is true. After thinking about it, I decided to not burst his bubble. What’s the point? Plus, it will only end up crushing his academic confidence. It is what it is. I remember waiting in the hallway alongside other hopeful parents for our children to finish the test. It’s such a horrible feeling of doom and relief. I can’t even imagine what it must be like outside testing centers in countries like Japan, China, Korea, India when so much rests in the success of that child. As the results of Chase’s SSAT slowly sank into my mind, my heart sank even lower. Now, I have the child who “doesn’t do well on standardized tests”. Now, I have the child whose scores are ”on the very low end of acceptability”. Now, I must say things like, “I didn’t want to be at a school that didn’t look at the whole child.” It is what it is.

Last Saturday, I took Chase to Waffle House to finally satisfy my yen for… well, Waffle House. It made us both realize how much we missed walking together. Our walk had us pass Arlington Memorial Park cemetery and I found myself thinking about my mom. I remembered how she used to tell me, “You are my hopeliest daughter.” I laughed thinking about the obvious translation glitch but also because it made me so happy to remember the sentiment. I watched Chase run ahead of me, still in his bubble of innocence, and I whispered, “You are my hopeliest son.”

Until next time…

Trying To Do the Right Thing

Getting my Yakult On!!!

Getting my Yakult On!!

It’s been about a month since we’ve been back. Things are just starting to feel “normal”. I say this after going to Buford Farmer’s Market today and practically having an orgasm after finding they have Yakult Yogurt! I must have put on some kind of show because a lady who was nearby asked me, “Is it that good?” and then picked up a case for herself.

I’m still not comfortable driving. I swear every other car is being driven by people on their phones talking or texting and it makes me so paranoid. I keep having to remind myself to STAY ON THE RIGHT! STAY ON THE RIGHT!!! And on top of all that,  I don’t know how Georgia code allows mailboxes to be placed so close to the roads. It’s life and death getting your mail here.

Oops!

Oops!

CHASE

The last couple of weeks it has been like DefCon 4 here at the house. We decided at the last minute to try to apply Chase to different middle school Fall 2013. This involved last-minute EVERYTHING. We are applying to 3 different schools. To be honest, I just couldn’t muster the energy to apply to any more than three. They are like college applications nowadays. So for each school, I have to fill out involved background information and write essays about our family and Chase in particular. We have to pay registrations fees to each school. I have to request transcripts and teacher evaluations for each school from all the schools Chase has attended. I also had to late-register Chase for the SSAT which is required by private schools in Atlanta for entry evaluation. His test date is February 2nd. And by the way, did I happen to mention he had Spring Baseball tryouts last Saturday? All the schools have called and we have scheduled the interviews. Why are we going through this madness when we are already at a school with an excellent reputation that he attended since he was 3 years old? As much as we love Holy Innocents’ Episcopal School and appreciate its loving and nurturing culture, things have changed, and Chase has changed.

Very shortly after Chase returned to school, a boy known for being the bully type came up to Chase in the playground and forced him and a friend to stop playing. This boy, then got in Chase’s face and said, “So what are you?!? Chinese or Japanese?”

Next incident: Same boy comes up to Chase at recess and says, “Hey Chase, since you’re so fat, I’ll bet you’re slow too. Wanna race?”

Today, Chase told me he was challenged by this boy to a tether ball game and after Chase won, the boy hit Chase with the ball bruising his arms.

He started school January 7th.

The bullying is horrible, but this boy was a bully before we moved and it is obvious he has suffered no consequences for it.

The other issue is homework. In Tokyo, we often had 3 or more hours of homework each night. Here, we have hardly any homework and much of the homework is extremely easy. It is very hard for me to sit by and watch while Chase re-calibrates his effort towards schoolwork. We practically had nightly exorcisms to get to the point when Chase could survive academically in Tokyo and now there are days when he has no homework because “there’s a test tomorrow”.

Unlike most Japanese, people in the South have opinions. Especially about things like private schools. I’ve heard enough good and bad stories about every school at this point, I feel like it’s God’s Will. Even if we end up staying at Holy Innocents’ Episcopal School, I will take it as a sign that it is just meant to be. The great thing about HIES is I know they will cater Chase’s program for his needs. Given the fact that Cliff doesn’t want Chase to go to Woodward Academy because it’s “in a terrible neighborhood” (and he doesn’t think Chase will get to play sports because of all the black students), and I don’t want Chase to go to Westminster because I want him to have a life, that only leaves Pace Academy. In case you are interested, tuition to these private schools: Woodward ($19,770), Westminster ($22,270), Pace Academy ($22,570). Applications have to be completed around March and early April is when decision letters will be mailed out.

Making the decision to explore other schools for 6th grade is heart-breaking for me. Chase has been at Holy Innocents’ since he was 3 years old. His best friend is there and we have great friends and memories of the school. I don’t know what is the right thing. All I know is I’m just trying to do the best thing and for some reason this felt like it needed to be done.

Until next time…

Dear Japan,

deartokmix

Dear Japan,

I know, in the past, we’ve had our differences. For the record, I forgive you. It means we can move on and move forward.

Seeing you again, after all these years was enlightening. After almost 20 years, it was good to see you hadn’t changed much. I know I have. Twenty years ago, you showed me things but I was too young and too stupid to appreciate you. This time around, my ears and eyes were open to everything you had to offer. Amazing things happened. It was easy to love you, with your style and good manners.

All my life, I have felt like your poorer cousin. But this time around, I was able to see how Korea had transformed itself from Ugly Duckling to Beautiful Swan. This is something I never expected and not only did I see it, but it is the Korea Chase will remember. This would have never happened without you.

I hate leaving you, knowing you aren’t doing so well. Your stubbornness has outgrown its usefulness and now you are hurting. I genuinely want you to recover and come back stronger than ever. I’m not one of those people who believes in order to have more, others have to have less. I took Finance 101… or was it Baking 101? We just grow the size of the pie, right? Who doesn’t want more pie?

Japan, Thank you for showing me

  • I can wear shorts again as long as my tights are opaque or my socks go over my knees.
  • Portions can be small, and I don’t have to feel like a lesser hostess.
  • Bicycle! Biiiii-cycle!
  • Karma is not “Net Zero”. If you give just a little, you receive much more.
  • The meaning of “The Greater Good.”
  • Some of the most phenomenal people in the World.
  • Black may be beautiful, but Asian is Awesome!

You know how I hate good-byes. So, while I’m away, have a good life & take care of yourself.

Until next time, Friend…

Kathryn in Atlanta

 

Hello, Goodbye

friends

If you’re brave enough to say goodbye, life will reward you with a new hello.

-Paulo Coehlo

I’m not one of those people who likes to quote quotes so much, but I came across this one by Paulo Coehlo and it seemed especially poignant. Within a year, I’ll be moving literally from Tokyo to Atlanta, and emotionally from having a mom to not having a mom. Usually, when I know I’m moving, I just skulk off in the middle of the night without warning and disappear. I would tell as few people as I could as late as I could. I hate the way people look at you like you have some terminal disease after you tell them your plans. Soon after, I can tell they have “checked out”. Since my mom passed, saying goodbye is especially hard. I’ve been walking around with a perm-a-grin similar to the Joker from Batman. I am loath to admit this, but I feel fragile. Sometimes I’m grinding my teeth so hard trying to keep the smile on my face I feel like my eyes are bulging. In the big picture, I know I am being selfish.

Golf friends

Golf friends

FROM THE OTHER SIDE

A few years ago, when I was ready to accept yoga into my life, I formed a very close relationship with my yoga instructors. Balance Yoga is where my inner yogi was born, and it was there I joined a yogi sisterhood. One day, I showed up to class to find out that one of our instructor/friend/yogi/sisters had just left. Evidently, unbeknownst to me, she was having some marital issues, and she just up and left in the middle of the night. Shut down her Facebook and phone and fell off the grid. It was so shocking. It left us all dazed and confused. It was the first time I cried after a yoga practice.

School Friend Aaron

School Friend Aaron

SAYONARA TOKYO

Tokyo is a place full of good-byes. Every 5-6 months there is this period of time when everyone is getting together to say bon voyage. I don’t blame the Japanese for being reserved. I get it now. For some of us born B.F. (Before Facebook), friendship requires more than a click on the “Like” button. Forming bonds and establishing friendships means an emotional investment is being made, and, like most things, you get what you pay for. As sad as I am to leave this wondrous and ethereal place, I am looking forward to being somewhere where I can invest for the long-term without worrying about early withdrawal penalties.

Food Friends: Nghi, Anna, & Hema

Food Friends: Nghi, Anna, & Hema

YOU’RE GOING TOO?

Nghi happens to be leaving for their next assignment in Beijing. She insisted Cliff, Chase and I come over for dinner at their place. She treated me to a night off from cooking and all of us to a terrific meal. It is nice for us to be leaving at the same time because I think I would feel saddest to leave her behind. She is so special and waaaay too good for Michael. Michael’s a good guy, but honestly, he should thank God every day to be so lucky. I can’t wait to hear about their move and “new life” in China.

Golf Friends

Golf Friends

Today’s good-bye coffee was nice because we were a table of women who were all relocating out of Japan. No one is being left behind and it’s a lot less sad.

Mayumi, Me, Grace, Alexandra, Angela

Mayumi, Me, Grace, Alexandra, Angela

I have started to just do coffee appointments because I was booking so many sayonara lunches and dinners. Now I’m all jacked up on caffeine all day, but I think it helps me biking the tough hills and my Joker smile.

My Tennis Crew from the Embassy: Sachiko, Mariko, Izumi, Hiroko, Setsuko, & Kelli

My Tennis Crew from the Embassy: Sachiko, Mariko, Izumi, Hiroko, Setsuko, & Kelli

ST MARY’S INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Chase has been moody as well. I’m trying to help him through it. Fortunately he’s not one of these macho types who doesn’t believe in therapy. He actually suggested taking a meeting with the school counselor to talk about transitioning. He’s so renaissance. I love it.

Leno, Chase, someone I don't know, Keibun, and Kwang-Hyun

Leno, Chase, Jae-Hyuk, Keibun, and Kwang-Hyun

I know we had issues in the beginning regarding school placement. Who doesn’t? Somethings you just don’t know how it’s going to work out until you give it some time. Cliff and I both agree (did I just write that?!?) putting Chase in St. Mary’s International School was the best thing for him. It is the closest thing to a Japanese learning environment a non-Japanese speaker could experience. In an all-boy environment Chase learned being a boy/man is defined by many things. In retrospect, if he had been accepted to ASIJ, he would have spent a majority of his time with Americans and probably missed out on a lot of cultural learning opportunities. This year has been terrific.

NEW HELLOS

Me, Bridget, Emily

Me, Bridget, Emily

Just when I think my friend list can’t get any longer, I meet new people who are just too irresistible. Take Bridget & Emily. They are part of my “spinning crowd” and we just started hanging this fall/winter. ExPats are like that. I think when you know it’s all temporary, you figure out pretty quickly it’s either clickin’ or it ain’t. Relocating is a lonely process. Sometimes it’s self-imposed and sometimes it isn’t. It’s nice to meet people who know you’re leaving and say “Screw it! let’s just enjoy the moment!” Hearing this from a woman is definitely different from a man.

Me and Nicki

Me and Nicki

SHIPS IN THE NIGHT

Chase & Mize

Chase & Mize

Just a few weeks ago, Chase started talking about a new girl at the bus stop. Her name is Mize. Evidently, the way to Chase’s heart is to tell him you like playing Minecraft. I got the feeling this girl was “different”, so being the good mom I am, I started to stalk the two of them. I followed Chase to the bus stop. I realized, the first time, it was a mutual admiration club. She is definitely checking the “like-likes” him box. This is Chase’s first crush. I thought I was going to be all jealous and bitter, but on the contrary, I’m completely enthralled with each days “bus stop drama”. After school, I ask him to give me detailed description of what happened today. Fortunately, he is happy to re-cap it all. He’s feeling quite the stud.

Watching these two, has me genuinely smiling. Soon they will have to part ways, but they are enjoying something so special. Once more, I find myself learning from Chase. He’s not ignoring her or pushing her away because he’s on his way out. He’s being present in a way that is a gift for both of them. When was the last time you had a conversation with someone and neither was hanging onto their phone waiting to be interrupted? The lunches, dinners, and coffees I’ve had over these last few weeks have been so special to me. I’ve given extra long hugs and shed a few tears. It’s hard on one hand, but that’s the nature of precious things, isn’t it?

Until next time…

Birthday Traditions

Dessert Presentation

We don’t just celebrate a birthday. It feels like Chase and Cliff celebrate their birth for days. I actually had to question the whole situation this past birthday of Chase’s. Why is it his birthday celebration? Why isn’t it my birth day? I gave birth to him. Hmmmf. Be that as it may, we go on.

Fancy!

One of our now favorite traditions for Chase’s birthday is FANCY DINNER NIGHT. I make a reservation at an upscale restaurant and we all get dressed in our best finery for one another. We started doing this a few years ago and it has become something we all look forward to immensely.

This year we booked a table at Flat Iron Restaurant. When I first heard about FlatIron, I knew it would be a once in a lifetime experience and ergo, perfect for our special evening. Each table comes with your own chef and narrator. Yes, I said narrator or “tour guide”. The cuisine is described as “a two-hour, multi platform cooking adventure that melds aspects of molecular gastronomy and sensory cooking.” I’d like to share a few of the more memorable dishes.

Prix Fixe

We started our evening with cocktails and for Chase, Mocktails:

This is Chase’s “Dos Equis Man” pose

VEGGIES W/ FISH IN A TUBE & Black Truffle Pesto:

The fish is in the “toothpaste”

SMOKE & ICE DISCO: Okinawan line-caught Swordfish with turnip/pear relish

Served in a smoke-filled dome

PLAYING DOCTOR

This was my plate. Chase & Cliff had Striploin instead of Scallops

Chase administers his 1st hot beef injection

Today it’s black truffle juice. Tomorrow, botox!

Because these nights are usually very rich foods, I always make sure I’m super hungry before going. Starting my meal with 3 shots of alcohol on an empty stomach definitely got the night going. Needless to say, everything was delicious and a feast for our eyes as well as our stomachs. It was a tremendous way to end this year’s round of birthdays. Now it’s on to Christmas! Oh and moving!

Bon Appetit!

Until next time…

Low Maintenance w/ a High Maintenance Look

On my first date with Cliff, I let him know, I was “a low maintenance girl with a high maintenance look.”

My Signature Handkerchief

Since moving to Tokyo I have started carrying:

  • My signature handkerchief
  • My own black cloth napkin in case restaurants only have the white variety
  • Black Prada flats to wear when my high-heels are killing me

I recently added to my Japanification

I Never Thought I Could… Go Figure!

  • Fedora
  • 2 Sunbrellas (Formal & Sporty)
  • UV gloves
  • Fur dingle dangle for my purse (Sorry Alexandra. I broke down)
  • 2 Fans (Formal & Sporty)

I still believe I can say I am low maintenance because I am often ready for a night out on the town before Cliff.

FUR PHRASES

Just hanging around the house

You know how “Kids Say the Darndest Things?” I was collecting similar quotes by Ex-Pat wives (ie., “I’m so sick of vacationing in Bali…” & “I wouldn’t wear this myself, but I’ll buy one for my gardener since it’s for charity.”), but then, I realized I could do a special section for just people who own furs.

  • I must take this fur off! I’m starting to sweat!
  • Do you think I’ll need my fur tonight? Please go upstairs and fetch my fur.
  • Is it possible to find a dog that will match my fur?
  • I don’t know what’s worse! Carrying or wearing this animal!
  • This fur isn’t in danger! I’m taking very good care of it.

On my last trip to Korea, I broke down and purchased a fur vest. It’s lavender, but I swear it doesn’t look hooker at all. Well, maybe high-end hooker. Owning a fur suddenly makes you appreciate all the nonsensical fur phrases uttered by my fellow fur fashionistas. It’s kind of like when you buy a Mercedes and then suddenly, every other car on the road is a Mercedes. You know what I mean? ;)

THE ULTIMATE JAPANESE ACCESSORY

Our baby girl!

Recently, I freaked out a few of my friends when I talked about expecting a baby girl. Cliff proves he is the ultimate head hunter and that he can even overcome species. He somehow learned who the “Breeder of the Year” was and managed to score a baby from their latest litter! She is about 2 weeks old and is coming from Regency Breeders. This little mini schnauzer is going to be very well-loved and very fashionably dressed. Chase is already threatening to brainwash the dog to love him best. The plan is for Chase and Cliff to take a Dad & Me trip to California in January (probably over MLK) and do some sight-seeing and pick up our new baby. I can’t wait! We have been talking names and I would like to call her Dokdo (after the island the Japanese and Koreans are fighting over), but we are also considering Stella. I have a gift for naming, so I will wait until I have her in my arms.

Until next time…

Touring Seoul 2012: The Omnivore’s Dilemma

-Culinary tradition: A single, strong, stable culture of food

Kimchee

Thanks to a lovely reader Wendy, I’m reading the Omnivore’s Dilemma by Michael Pollan.  I always say, there are no insignificant coincidences. She mentioned the book in a recent blog and I decided to take her up on her suggestion to read it. The book is extremely eye-opening. A lot of people may be frightened by some of the food in other cultures, but frankly speaking, perhaps we should be more wary of the processed foods so readily available in our supermarkets. I digress, but one of the benefits of living outside of America is knowing my food is most likely still coming from a farmer and doesn’t have a bunch of chemicals and hormones.

In the U.S., I am always fascinated by foreigners in Korean restaurants. I always assume they are former military or must have Korean friends, because Korean food isn’t the kind of cuisine you just spontaneously have a hankering for. You have to be introduced. But once you are, there is no turning back.

Traditional Korean barbeque meal

You cannot hear about Korea without talking about the food. If you like garlic, spicy, or meat this is your cuisine. I’m just going to talk about the street food in this blog because there is so much there and it is such an important part of the Korean culinary tradition.

One of my fondest memories of Korea is remembering my aunt coming to visit us bringing street corn. It was just so yummy! Etiquette note: You should NEVER go to anyone’s home without something. Since street food is, well, on the street, it’s easy to just pick up a bag of fruit, sausages, corn, etc., on your way. Korean corn is different from American corn. It is sweeter and mealy-er and corny-er. Cliff tells me it’s the same corn used to feed cattle. Next time someone calls me a heifer, I may have to moo. Anyone who’s seen me eat corn knows, I leave no kernel behind. Seriously, you can wash with my cob when I’m done eating.

Did I mention spicy?

Koreans love pickles and peppers. Here is just a small sampling. Just looking at this stall made me thirsty. Spicy note: because spiciness is an oil-based quality, drinking water is not so helpful. My mom always taught us when food got too spicy to eat some plain rice and chew on that as long as possible to absorb the heat.

Say Ddeokbokki or Tteokbokki or just point w/ your finger

I’ll admit, the Japanese have a better system for the Romanization of Japanese than the Koreans. Thank God I can read Hangul (word for written Korean language) because the English translation of Korean is a nightmare. I don’t know how foreigners do it. Anyhow, Ddeokbokki is a popular street food and easy to make. Chase has actually gotten into it and I love that this dish will be a part of his childhood.

Pig Intestines & Snouts

Chase draws the line at snout

On one of our tour days, we arrived at the food stalls area in one of the old shopping districts. Think, 3rd World Food Court. It was a wonderfully funky and Bizarre Foods kind of setting.

Chestnuts, Deep Fried Food & Fish Jerky! Heaven!

Do you think a man was behind this new form of street ice cream?

Fried silkworm “Goes great with beer.”

The first time I was exposed to beondegi was with a college friend on one of my visits to Korea. She and all her friends kept telling me how great it was. At the time, I was open to anything, but I just couldn’t wrap my lips around this particular street food. It was beyond nasty. You can smell it for miles. Believe it or not, this tasty snack is stocked on shelves in a can!

You say “Tornado” I say “Tornahdoh”…

This is a new one for me. Tornado Potato. Spiral cut potato fried on a stick. What could be better?…

Pig in a Tornado Potato

I know! Pig meat makes everything better according to just about every man.

In case you were wondering

This was one of the signs I encountered at the airport checkout. I guess a lot of people have tried smuggling Korean food items. I mean, 5 out of 7 restricted items are foods! One is toothpaste! which kind of makes sense. I remember one time, my mom made me smuggle 3 Cornish hens (Sam gye tang) onto a plane in South Carolina! Maybe it’s the poverty in our past, the guts in our gustation, or the struggle of our stomachs.  Food is a national treasure for Koreans. There is a taste and satisfaction that only comes from eating red pepper and garlic. It makes you laugh and cry. Definitely a metaphor for Korean relationships. You shouldn’t eat Korean food alone. It’s meant to share. I’m convinced all that garlic forces people to stick together. For many reasons.

Sometimes I’m asked for Korean recipes, well specifically, my mom’s recipes for Korean dishes. I have recently discovered a wonderful blog called Kimchimari which offers clear, easy instructions on Korean cooking accompanied by beautiful photographs. I highly recommend it if you are interested. I am using it quite a bit as a reference for my own Korean cooking. Remember, Korean food is naturally gluten-free!

I hope you all have enjoyed my ruminations on Korea. I definitely had my ups and downs, but of course, that is the nature of “having breakdowns” as Chase will tell you. As I mailed in my Absentee Ballot for the 2012 election, I couldn’t help but feel so fortunate to have both Korean and American cultures in my life. No country is perfect, but hopefully as we travel and open our eyes and stomachs to the world we can take the best of everything we experience and be better for it.

Da-eum shigan-eh bopshida…

Touring Seoul Korea 2012 Part 2

Haechi: Symbol of Seoul

Conversation at the hotel after Day 1

  • Me: I just want to apologize for being such a flake.
  • Chase: It’s alright mom, we know you miss Halmi.
  • Me: I know, I’m trying my best to keep it together.
  • Chase: Don’t worry, I talked to Julie already.
  • Me: What do you mean? What did you say to her?
  • Chase: I told her my mom sometimes has breakdowns.
  • Me: Did you explain why? Did you tell her about Halmi dying?
  • Chase: No.
  • Me: What? You know, just saying that makes me sound like I’m crazy!
  • Chase: [shrugs shoulders]

Chase standing at the base of N Tower

N SEOUL TOWER

The N signifies “New” not North. It also happens to be located on Namsan Mountain, but N still means New. This is an important distinction because it provides a bit of insight to the Korean mindset of today. Compared to the Japanese, Koreans are eager to change and evolve and “N”-ovate. It was obvious from Day 1. Seoul today reminds me of Tokyo 20 years ago. Money flying all over the place, people from all over the world coming together, everyone is working at the crack of dawn and the air just feels electric. It saddens me to see how stagnant Japan has become in the face of an ever-changing, ever-growing global economy. While the rest of the world looks to expand and grow beyond their borders, the Japanese grow more and more insular. The views from N Tower are incredible and it is easy to see why there are so many visitors. The trek uphill ain’t easy, but it’s definitely worth it. N Tower is also popular for lovers and wedding proposals. Many couples will come with their own padlock promises:

Locks of Love? or Locks for Love? You decide.

KOREAN FOLK VILLAGE

I miss the good old days of child labor

One of the joys of going to a folk village is seeing your children doing “back-breaking” work. It’s also fun to see the different tools they used to do everyday activities.  BTW, the broom has not evolved so much. This village did a very nice job of showcasing the differences between the way the rich and poor lived. Instead of wearing designer labels or driving imported cars, you knew this was a wealthy household when you saw tile on their roof and color in their clothes. Everyone else had rice straw roofs and could only wear colors when they married. Otherwise it was beige. This folk village is a popular set for historical  Korean dramas. It is definitely hard to be in Korea and not appreciate the influence Korean dramas have had here and everywhere else. Trust me. People watch!

Drama about Korean Yentl

Back in the day, only boys were deemed worthy enough to get educated. Sungkyunkwan Scandal was about the first girl who pretended to be a boy in order to attend school.

Dae Jang Geum

Again, back in the day, women were not allowed to be doctors. Dae Jang Geum started out as a cook’s apprentice and went on to become the king’s first female physician. Looks like someone has “yellow fever!”

Menage a trois w/ the tour guide

This guy was hard as cardboard! Is this a compliment? I don’t know.

After we finished taking a bunch of goofy pictures, and molesting some more cutouts, we strolled through the rest of the village. It was easy to see why October is such a popular month to travel.

Gorgeous Day in the Folk Village

HWASEONG FORTRESS

Hwaseong Fortress

Hwaseong Fortress: Great Wall of Korea? It is actually a tomb so it is more likely a cross between The Great Wall and the Taj Mahal. The body buried here is an unjustly condemned and murdered king. This structure differs from similar ones in China and Japan because it managed to combine military, commercial, and political functions. The Fortress has had immeasureable influence on Korean architecture, engineering, and history. The only thing I regret is not seeing the archery area. There is a huge field with targets and for 200 Won you can rent arrows and shoot targets. Do this first because they rotate in 30 minute intervals and it’s easier to knock this out first and then walk around the fort. Most likely you’ll see a bunch of business men on a tour lined up proving how good they are.

MYEONG DONG

Myeong Dong literally means “Bright City” but it should mean “Shop til you Drop”. After 2 full days of sight-seeing, my droppability probability was pretty high. I wandered around and bought a few things for our new “baby” but I really didn’t buy anything for myself. I kept seeing fantastic things to buy, but I just couldn’t pull the trigger.  Of course, the next morning I was kicking myself. I did get my chestnuts. You know Korean roasted chestnuts are the best in the world.

Stay tuned -next blog, Korean Food!

End of long day

Until next time…

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