Tag Archives: India

India Part 4: Day 2 Taj Mahal, Red Fort, Dancing Monkeys

February 20, 2012 By in Cliff, Culture Shock, Daily Living, India, Kathryn, Uncategorized, useful Tags: , , , , , Leave a comment

Taj Mahal

Day 2 Tuesday

6:30am meet the driver downstairs to go to Agra. We have been told the drive to Agra can be anywhere from 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 hours long depending on the traffic. This was our first experience with “India Time”. People will schedule things at any given time, but there is usually a 60-90 minute standard deviation when people actually arrive. Traffic is insane. No one follows the traffic lights or stays within the lines drawn on the road. Horns are constantly honking and you have to stop for livestock and beggars who may just be passing through and are ubiquitous.

Traffic Trifecta: Beggar children-Holy Cow-Tourist

Cliff has gone to the Taj before by train, but felt like going by car would enable us to experience more of India. He was right.

Stop #1:  ATM because we had NO Rupees.

Cliff entering the ATM

You know how they tell you not to go to crowded ATMs or ATMs in bad neighborhoods? Not possible in India. I took this picture after telling Cliff not to get raped or killed. The driver volunteered to go in with him and act as bodyguard. All I kept thinking about were all these poor Indians (I mean this literally) standing around listening while the ATM is doling out the paper money “ch-ch-ch-ch-…” and this wealthy-looking white man waiting for the handout. I figured at the very least, he was going to get his hand chopped off. Luckily, Cliff had the good sense not to withdraw what he had intended and settled for 10,000 Rupees = $200 USD = about 2 weeks salary for average Indian. Afterwards, he and the driver ran back to the car and we resumed our journey.

Stop #2: Bathroom Break

Ever watched the movie Hostel? Well picture a sequel called “Hostel 4: Trip to India”. The place where we stopped for our pit stop turned out to be where all the drivers take their customers for a potty break. Cliff and I went in and out pronto. While we are on the subject, I would like to show you a picture of our bathroom at the hotel just so you see the basic components of an Indian bathroom.

Bathroom at Our Hotel

Half the time I went to a bathroom, I couldn’t figure out where the flush button/lever was and I kept seeing the hand spray next to the toilet wondering what that was for? Every bathroom has these parts. I later found out that the hand spray is in case you want to bidet. I don’t get it. How the hell are you supposed to do your business, spray yourself down there, and not get your clothes all wet and nasty? Country full of engineers. Whatever.

Stop #3 Paying the Toll

At some point on the highway, we had to stop in a long line of cars.The driver explained he was going out to “pay the taxes” but not to worry,  he would lock us in the car and we were not to open the windows. I barely had time to ask why when a man with 2 monkeys stationed himself next to my window. He was begging for money and making his monkeys do a little show. The car in front of us had someone selling jewelry from a stick. After what seemed like a VERY long time, the driver returned and we were able to get moving again. Now, whenever we get the chance, Cliff and I like to say to whoever, “Dance for your Rupees you jumping monkey!”

Stop #4 Taj Mahal

You have to park a little ways away from the Taj and then be transported to the gate.

You can take a camel:

You can take a rickshaw:

And you can walk.

I don’t want to bore you with a bunch of silly photos of the Taj, because it is pretty well documented. Being at the Taj Mahal on Valentine’s Day was really lovely.

Happy Valentine's Day

  • Me: Now that man knew how to love his woman. Where’s my Taj Mahal?
  • Cliff: “I got your Taj My Haul right here…”
  • Me: silence.

It’s a really incredible place and it goes without saying that if you are ever in the neighborhood (within a 5 hour drive) it’s worth it.

Stop #5 Lunch at Sheraton

The key to enjoying vacations in “poor-ass countries” (phrase I took from Nghi who is from Poor-Ass Vietnam) is to give yourself breaks where cleaner, wealthier people are hanging out. In Agra, this meant having lunch at the Sheraton. This place was really gorgeous and probably one of the nicest Sheratons I’ve ever seen. Having just looked at the official website, I will say that the pictures from the website are probably 100 times nicer than what I saw in person, but still, a very nice place and nothing like the ATM or the Hostel. After we had a lovely Indian lunch, we had the opportunity to meet some men from Rajasthan:

Waiting for our Driver with the Rajasthanis

I think in my next life as an Indian, I would hope to be Rajasthani. No offence to the Punjabis, but Punjabis party harder than Alexandra and I’m barely able to hang with her. The Rajasthanis are lovely, warm-hearted people with the added plus of being awesome dressers. After lunch, Cliff and I decided we would try to hit 1 more place before we started back.

Stop #6 The Red Fort

Red Fort in Agra, India

The Red Fort is actually older than the Taj Mahal. Only 30% of the compound is open to the public. The other 70% is an active military compound. It was really someting walking the same paths as so many other people and wild beasts of history had traveled so many years ago. It has an amazing history and architecture.

Inside the Royal Quarters at the Red Fort

After the Red Fort, we were definitely ready to head back. Before we could get on our way, the driver ended up taking us to a place where Indians are still creating marble works of art like tabletops and trays and other items in the old ways of the Taj.

There was a moment where I totally expected to see Chris Rock pop out clutching a long hair weave in his hands ala “Good Hair“. Felt very sweat shop to me, but despite all that, Cliff and I ended up purchasing a beautiful platter with all the Taj Mahal stones embedded in the Indian Marble. Navnit (Father of the Bride) gave us some advice in Indian haggling. He said find out what the price is and then discount by 100%.

All told it was 9 hours of driving through terrible, jerkie, honking traffic. Be prepared if you ever go to India. It is LOUD. Like I mentioned before, everyone is very free with the horn and in fact you will see written on the backs of trucks “Horn Please” because this is how they let other cars know where they are. By the time we got back, it was around 8pm. Believe it or not, Navnit called Cliff and said we should come over and have dinner and watch the girls practicing their dance routines. I told Cliff to go without me. I was done.

Until next time…

India Part 3: Getting There

February 20, 2012 By in Chase, Cliff, Culture Shock, Daily Living, Getting there, India, Uncategorized, useful Tags: , , 2 Comments

View from our Room at the City Club in Delhi

Day 1 Monday

Cliff and I leave Chase around 5:45am Monday to catch the 6:00am bus for the airport. Chase has hit a new milestone and knows he needs to get up, make his own breakfast and get to the bus stop by himself. We told him if he misses the bus not to tell us but to find a way to get to school on his own and not get killed or kidnapped. During the bus trip, I began thinking about different things. There was a time when I was “exercise-cray-jee” and refused to go on vacations for more than 3 days because I was worried about missing my cardio, but now, I see traveling as exercise for my soul and I just go with it. Just something I was thinking on my way to India. The other thing I thought about was how Chase used to have some speech issues so he couldn’t say ridiculous and instead would say, “That’s dickless.” This phrase turned out to be a useful tagline throughout our trip.

Of course during the bus trip, I had to go to the bathroom because my morning coffee hit me. Of course we were sitting in the front row. Of course when I tried to walk myself all the way to the back where the toilet was it was like being a human pinball in AND out of the bathroom. Now I know why all those damn handles are on the walls. By the time I finally managed to relieve myself the bus stopped and when I came out, Cliff was already off the bus getting the luggage.

I call this picture: C-E-Oh No Privileges

Cliff decided to book Cathay Pacific Airlines for this trip on the recommendation from another well-traveled executive who said when he had to travel with his family, the coach section in Cathay airplanes was really good. He was wrong. In fact, I would actually say the planes we flew coming and going were the worst I’ve ever flown. Not only that, poor Cliff had to stand and wait with the normal folk to get in because he had no special relationship with the airline or its affiliates. Like they say, stay with the devil you know.

Despite everything, we were in good spirits until we were connecting in Hong Kong. Cliff got mad because I didn’t wait for him when we were looking for the gates. I thought this was funny since Cliff NEVER waits for anyone and he has actually lost Chase and me a few times because he walks so far ahead of us. It used to bother me, but now I kind of like it that people think we aren’t together. It gives me a chance to walk through the airport like Mysterious Traveling Woman. Sometimes, when Cliff tries to talk to me now, I respond while looking in other directions so people can’t make the connection.

Getting through Customs

So after 9+ hours of traveling to India, we arrive and Cliff has messages from Navnit telling us the driver will pick us up and take us directly to his home where they are having an informal dinner/get-together. Now I am on India time so that means the only times I can keep up with are Daytime and Night-time. When we arrived it was definitely Night-time.

Cliff and Navnit in Front of the Singh Mansion

It was dark as we drove through Delhi trying to find Navnit’s home. As we entered the subdivision, it was all dark except this one house at the end that was lit up like a Christmas tree on fire. This would be Navnit’s home. It is really something to see the way the Indians decorate to celebrate a wedding. Several people already mingling and eating. They had a terrific buffet of North Indian food (the Singhs are Punjabi). Let me just tell you, this “Mysterious Traveling Lady” likes to immerse herself in whatever culture I find myself in. If people are eating with their hands, then I too shall eat with my hands. I can tell Cliff is a little grossed out watching me do this and to be honest, I’m grossing myself out a little because I did just get off a plane, but screw it, I’m all in. One thing I found quite awkward was eating with my right hand and then having to greet people and shake hands with that same hand. Even though my right hand was definitely getting the hang of it, I decided to try to train my left hand to eat so I could shake with my right. Later on I was told not to do this because you eat with your right hand and you wipe with your left, and I’m not talking about your mouth. So I re-corrected myself and went back to my right hand and did the head bob/nod greeting when I met new people.

My word count is getting high, so I’ll stop here. Will try to give you all closure before heading off to Nagano Wednesday.

Until next time…

About Last Night

February 12, 2012 By in Chase, Cliff, Culture Shock, Daily Living, Dining out, Girlfriends, Japan, Japanese Excursions, Kathryn, Living in Tokyo, Tokyo, Transportation, useful Tags: , , , , , , , 4 Comments

 

Cosmopolitan from Union Square Restaurant

Before the details get fuzzy, I must record the happenings of last night. I thought I could hang with Alexandra and Andrew (Alex & Andy) but I think I was kidding myself. Ever since our last trip together, I have promised myself I would gradually increase my alcohol tolerance, and adhere to my strict bedtime of 8:00pm. Saturday, Alexandra at least seemed to be considerate of my 10 hour sleep minimum. She asked me if she should make the reservation for 7 or 7:30pm so of course I said 7. We met them and another couple at Union Square restaurant in Tokyo Midtown for dinner. That Cosmopolitan picture was the drink I ordered. My eyes nearly fell out of my head because it was so big! I took a picture of it next to a 50 yen piece (about the same size as a nickel) because I just couldn’t believe it. I finally found something in Japan that wasn’t smaller here than in the US. After fantastic food, wines and service, Alexandra received a call from a friend who was at another bar close by with more people and oh by the way, do we all want to meet up? At this point, I’m feeling pretty saucy and having trouble in my Ferragamo wedges, but Alexandra is pulling me by the arm and threatening never to talk to me again if I don’t go for just one drink. She has promised Lien and me that we will be rewarded with furs if we go, what the hell?!? How can you not love Alex? Anyhow, for someone who can’t weigh more than 100 pounds soaking wet, she is a very strong woman. I attribute this to her Korean background.

Next stop, R2. We find the group. Everyone is very nice and they have somehow managed to score the front table so now we moved from a party of 6 to 12. Everyone was jovial and drinking more wine. Being surrounded by the 20-30-whatever set, it suddenly dawned on me that as you get older it isn’t about who you’re going to meet when you go out anymore. It’s who you can escape from. I don’t know when, but by I think 11pm? I can’t remember, people were dispersing, there was talk of babysitters needing to be relieved, I was seeing a light at the end of the tunnel, but I was mistaken, because it turned out to be the glinting light from Alexandra’s diamond ring as she was pulling my wrist AGAIN and talking of karaoke! WTH? I can barely walk. Now she says I have to go for “just 1 song, baby. Shut up and get in the cab.” I’m disoriented. I’m tired. I’m going.

Smash Hits is where we pull up. The original and final 6 of us (Alex, Andy, Lien, Paddy, Cliff and yours truly). At first, I had no intention of getting on stage or  singing, but damn them if they didn’t make it seem so fun! The place had a HUGE inventory of songs to choose from and you could get on stage and jump in whenever you felt it. They even had props like wigs or a guitar. The place was pleasantly full, not crazy packed and we could spread out and it made it comfortable for even Cliff to get up and sing a tune:

Cliff and Alexandra singing backup for Andrew

ONE song turned into shutting down the place at 2:30am. Cliff and I somehow managed to stumbled home reeking of cigarettes and sneaking into the apartment trying not to wake the 10-year-old boy.

At this very moment Cliff and I are packing for our trip to India. Everything seems to be in order, but I always feel like I am forgetting something especially when we leave Chase behind. I want to blog while I am away but I am not sure if I’ll be able to, so just hang in there until I get back. Our flight returns to Tokyo next Saturday the 18th late in the afternoon. Cliff turns right around on Tuesday the 21st to do business in the US and I leave with Chase, Wednesday on the 22nd to meet Alexandra, Andrew and their boys up in Nagano for a few days of skiing. We will return Saturday the 25th. Cliff returns to Japan March 2nd. Whew!

Until next time…

 

 

India Part 2

February 6, 2012 By in Cooking, Japanese Excursions, Kathryn, Living in Tokyo, Pearls of wisdom, useful Tags: , , , Leave a comment

Just to provide a little more background on India:

Cliff has a partner in India whose daughter is getting married. Cliff being the good Texan that he is, ended up inviting himself plus one to this wedding. At first, I was feeling a little embarrassed about our entre’ into this event, but I’m not about to look a white horse (or elephant as it may be) in the mouth and I scheduled an appointment with my internist ASAP. You are supposed to get these shots at least a few weeks in advance so they have time to ”cook” in your body. Every time I go to the doctor and they ask me if I remember my last vaccinations I always say no. Who remembers that kind of thing? So I ended up getting 4 shots for things like Typhoid, Hepatitis A & B and a promise to return 6 months later for a booster. I didn’t get sick afterwards, but by dinnertime, I couldn’t lift my arms above shoulder level. Given my propensity for street food and intestinal distress, I also got some prescriptions to hopefully help me on the flight home if need be.

THE INVITATION:

Wednesday Invitation

Thursday Invitation

Friday Invitation

What you say? Three days of celebration? Yes. All the Indian weddings I have heard of have always involved 3 days of merriment. I love receiving beautiful invitations snail mail. It is part of a dying art of sending beautifully written notices on exquisite paper which has all been carefully selected with love. I think that is one of the love/hate relationships a lot of people have with Japan. In the beginning, it is a wonderful thing to watch people who take such care and time to do the simplest of things like tea ceremony, wrapping a gift, making a cocktail. After a while, it can be a little frustrating when you don’t have extra hours to wait for someone to bag your groceries, pluck the beans off a plant to make coffee, ring up a purchase and let you get the hell on with your day. The Japanese have perfected the zen of waiting in line.

GIFTS:

After Cliff and I saw the invitations and started realizing how lavish this affair was going to be, small beads of sweat began to form on our foreheads as we contemplated what kind of wedding gift is sufficient when drinks, food, and rare animals are involved? Of course I consulted with my siksaka (Hindi word for teacher) Hema. She suggested cash, gold bars, silver, and since we were coming from Japan, something Japanesey.  Evidently gold and silver are the international words for “good invitee.” Cliff insisted on consulting with his Indian friend and he told him to just give the couple $100. That’s a guy for you.

CLOTHING:

Some people told me I needed to pack a lot of clothing because these weddings are typically all day and everyday and guests need to look their freshest. Unfortunately, I have left most of my ball gowns in the States, but I have a couple of dresses that might work. I am also hoping to maybe pick up a sari to wear one night. I hope it doesn’t come off cheesy like when white chicks put chopsticks in their hair.

COOKING:

This part of my blog doesn’t really have to do with the wedding, but I have started my culinary journey into Indian cooking so I’m just throwing it in here. I was super excited to buy and fill my Masala spice set.

Masala Set

Last cooking lesson, Hema whipped it out while she was teaching and Adonica and I were so jealous. Fortunately our last visit to the Indian wholesaler afforded us the opportunity to get our own. It is so much like a painter’s palette and as soon as I filled mine, I felt like I was one step closer to creating my own Indian food art. In my mind’s eye (often referred to by yogis as the 3rd eye), I picture the American masala set:

Thursday is my next cooking lesson and we will do South Indian cuisine (last lesson was North Indian). Will try to take pictures and report back anything interesting.

Until next time…

Riddle Me This… and India: Part 1

February 5, 2012 By in Chase, Cliff, Culture Shock, Daily Living, Getting there, Japan, Transportation, Uncategorized, useful Tags: , , , , , , , 1 Comment

How can I be an unemployed, illiterate housewife in a foreign country and STILL be so tired and busy? I know this is something both women and their husbands have asked themselves at one time or another in their lives. As an “ex-pat wife” here in Tokyo, I feel like I have to fight the current stereotype. Although, you know what they say about stereotypes, they’re true. Are there obnoxious, entitled, clique-ish ex-pat wives running around talking about packages (I’m not talking about the physical one but the financial one) around Tokyo? Yes. Are there Others who are grateful for charmed lives, cooking home-cooked meals, tending to children, freezing in apartments typing out brilliant blogs with fingerless gloves hoping for a book or movie deal? Yes. I know I’m spoiled. Sometimes I try to hide it, and sometimes I let my labels show.

I like fresh flowers in my home, but I like fake outside. I like to be in bed by 8:00pm. I like to have pretty manicured hands, but my Catholic self is still making payments for the last manicure. Given the fact that almost all the women here have artwork on their fingertips, I feel like my unadorned phalanges are symbols of a “grounded, earthy person”. This has been on my mind too: how is it, I can send text messages all day, but the idea of punching 10 or 11 numbers on a keypad to make a call exhaust me? or does anyone else feel taxed at the mere prospect of having an actual phone conversation? I can’t wait for the day Apple comes out with the next level of communication when we can just send mental balloons to one another. They can call it the iThought.

Don’t ask me why, but I have also been wondering if wanting to drink sake in the middle of the day necessarily means I might be an alcoholic. Can’t people just enjoy the taste of sake so much that they crave it and want a drink at 11:00am? Like some of my friends have said, it’s Happy Hour somewhere in the world, but then again, these were my alcoholic friends. But seriously, is it so wrong to have a drink in the middle of the afternoon? Oh the shame!

On a totally different topic: INDIA

Cliff and I have been invited to a wedding in India. I have been to 2 “Indian” weddings in the States. I can’t help but assume that just the location dilutes the authenticity out of the event. One of the weddings happened to be for my Icelandic friend Gunnar who happened to be marrying an Indian woman, so that one didn’t even have an Indian Groom and half the guests were WHITE. India has always been on my list of places to visit. I have had this dream of striking a pose near the Bodhi tree. And just recently, Adonica and I have decided to move on from vegan Japanese cooking to Indian cooking. Just this past Thursday, Adonica, Nghi and I went to Asakusa to shop at an Indian wholesale market and get our pantry staples.

clockwise: Adonica, Me, Nghi

The outing was serendipitously initiated by the St. Mary’s Parents Association who had organized an outing to Asakusa. One of the parents actually owns the Indian store we visited. We took a group photo in front of the Kirin Brewery Headquarter:

Nghi thought that sculpture looked like a yam, but to me, it looked like a golden turd. I don’t know who, but maybe someone informed us that it is the symbol of beer foam. Figure that one out.

Back to India Preparations:

January 23rd: Appointment with Tokyo Medical Clinic for India Trip

This involved 4 inoculations and prescriptions for anti-diarrheals and antibiotics. I figure it isn’t about if, but when.

receipt for shots = $509.30

Prescriptions

Not sure what this will cost, but will let you know. When I went to the pharmacist, it was kind of funny, because he said in Japan a hand-written prescription was extremely rare. Most of the clinics will fax or email prescriptions for patients. It was kind of fun trying to decipher the doctor’s handwriting.

Will try to spend more time on my India trip preparations as I get more information. Seeing Hema this week for my 2nd cooking lesson. I believe Alexandra and Nicki are joining Adonica and me for Southern Indian cuisine.

Cliff returned from Europe yesterday and we are all here until the 13th when Cliff and I will leave for India. Joji, her daughter and Nghi will be looking after Chase while we are gone.

Until next time…

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